On Christmas Day, I left the kitchen midmorning for a few hours’ sleep and returned in the afternoon to bake the final items, and to decorate, label, and platter my contributions to the big feed. When I finished, I sat down, inhaling the earthy holiday smell—a mix of stuffing, cheap red wine, and bodies perspiring in the unusual warmth of the room. Every so often, I got up to replace a cake or deliver a fresh plate of cookies. I wanted to be certain that the rosy-cheeked mechanics and heavy-equipment operators, nearly unrecognizable without their insulated, chocolate-brown Carhartt overalls, weren’t deprived of any pleasure. At the end of the galley, the strangers I’d slowly come to know gripped blue plastic trays as they moved down the length of the steam table, heaping duck, potatoes, gravy, roast beef, and peas onto their plates. I watched them collect pats of shiny foil-wrapped butter to smear on the pillowy white rolls I’d made. I hoped that they’d like them, and that I’d made enough for everyone. ♦
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